Blue river

Left early in the morning. As I was waiting for the ferry to cross the Mekong to get to the road to the border, I sat and watched the sun rise over the water. It had rained last night so the clouds and water made a spectacular showing. The road from Strung Treng was either paved and pretending to be gravel, or gravel pretending to be paved. I couldn't decide. It was fairly green near the river, but then as I got further away and closer to the boarder, I could see more and more of the red dirt, now grateful for the rain. There were craters waiting to be lakes and ponds and a village of 6 houses. (is that enough to be a village?). I got a flat about 1/2 way to the boarder. I tried to pump it up, then my pump broke. Fortunately a van that was to pick up some tourists from Lao stopped. I had to pay 15 dollars, but I not only got to the border, but to a town on the Laos side (the driver of the other van going home.)
I found a person to fix my tire, then took a boat on to one of the islands (of the 4,000 island fame). I am now at a Internet cafe after spending some time at a small riverside restaurant. I watched some logs drift by, some fish dart across, and a tree that looked rather like a picture dictionary entry for tree, with its branches outstretched over the river. There was a rock just under the water that reminded me of Shrek's face before it was quite finished. Why do we always want to put a face on things I wonder? The pace here is beyond slow.
Tomorrow I'll head to Paxie, but it will probably take about two days.
Till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun

blah

I'm in Strung Treng. I took the bus, and I'm glad I did, the road was a) boring, b) long, and c) there was nothing, no where to stop and get a drink, let alone find a place to sleep.
Then in Strung Treng I caught a cold. I don't know if I''ll head to Laos tomorrow morning or the next day. It depends on how I feel.
Blah
Till I post again, be good, be happy and have fun.

pigs and dogs and cats oh my

The main road is paved, but the rest of the roads aren't. I was exploring a bit when I came to the funniest sight. Three dogs were trying to harass a pig, but the pig was nonplussed and continued rooting around in the garbage bags. This seemed to upset the dogs quite a bit. They were jumping up and down, barking. The pig ignored them. I had to laugh.
I'm going to Strung Treng tomorrow by bus (actually the overcrowded mini-van) I am anticipating 3 hours of hell. I'm pretty sure I can't do it by bike. I will also be volunteering for one hour at a school, teaching English. That should be fun.
Till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun.

a take on two cities

Leaving Kampoog Cham on highway 7 to Memot was very pleasant. Except for the heat. It is oppressive to say the least. However I did have a very pleasant reprive when on the road, two monks stopped me and asked me some questions. They then invited me to their "pagoda" (it wasn't really a pagoda, it was a very nice temple, with brightly painted walls depecting the life of Budha) He was very proud of the new ceiling. And I learned that Buddha didn't attain enlightenment until after he ate rice. I like that story. I also learned that a lot of monks become monks to be able to study. It is a system like the Catholics in previous centuries. After the pleasant repose, I traveled on to Memot. A very pleasant city. I found a nice guest house, that was clean and pleasantly furnished, and had dinner at a very nice resturant around the corner. (I had rice and two dishes, for only 2,000 reils-- a fact that becomes important later.)
The next morning I started early, and went to Snol. Now, I arrived in Snol quite early, only 11:30, but, I knew I couldn't go 80 more kilometers that day, and that is how far Kraitie was. I could have gotten a bus to Kraitie, but I decided to stay because I didn't know if I would have to get transport from Kraitie to Strung Treng (Strung Treng is 130 km from Kratie) -- ok in Snol there was only one guest house, and it was dirty. And became scary when I found a largish ugly bug crawling out of the drain in the bathroom. I know I've been doing this for too long because I didn't scream, and I didn't stop what I was doing. When I'd finished my business, I took said largish scary bug outside. No muss no fuss. I went to dinner. The place wasn't nice, but I was hungry. I had rice and two dishes for 4,000 reil. When I said something the woman became very unpleasant. Now keep in mind this was the worst time since I've been here, and it wasn't that bad. Plus Snol is a bus stop town. The only industry that I could see is the bus stop. But still.
I left as early as possible.
The road to Kraitie was long. And there were fewer villages. And only two sugar cane juice stands. I hope this doesn't mean that in Laos there won't be anymore sugar cane juice.
Although the road was flat flat flat, and dusty till now, it is now getting more hilly. Not anything huge, but not flat either. Plus it is getting green and junglish. And the villages although farther apart are looking quite prosperous.
I am staying here in Kratie today and tomorrow. I have to decide what to do about getting to Strung Treng. I don't know if I can make 130 km, and there are no towns big enough for a hotel on the road. There may be temples though. And I might be able to push myself.
Right now there is a sudden storm. I look out the door of the cafe, and the wind is blowing the awnings and non-tied down things all around the street. But the wind, feels soooooooo good. It has a touch of chill.
I should probably get off the computer now.
Till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun.

rolling by the river

I'm in Kompoong Cham now. Prey Veng was the smallest big city I think I've ever been in. So far the roads are good, the bugs are huge, and you can still get some pretty nice sugar cane juice. I'm such an addict now. I think because it is cold and sweet and they add salt to it, so it is probably like the sports drinks but tastes sooooo much better.
The villages are very friendly but in one, the kids didn't quite get the concept of begging. They knew they were supposed to ask for money, but they just didn't quite get it. They would yell Hello!Dollar!Hello! while waving. They didn't even try to get near.
It isn't the same green as Vietnam, and the scars of war are still visible, and sometimes they are still bleeding. But there is hope, the road is very new, and I see a re-forestation project (the shade was so very very welcome.)
With the new road, there is no longer boat service to Kratie, or Strung Treng, but that is ok. Although, I was kinda hoping that the road from Kratie would be too terrible and I would have to take a boat. The highway 7 going up from here is the long way, and it doesn't follow the Mekong, so I asked at one of the travel places, and there is a road that follows the river. But.....
it is very bad. And there is no place to stop. And my only fear really is that I won't find a place to stay before it gets dark.
So the highway it is. The road to here had no shoulder to speak of, but that was ok, because there was no traffic to speak of. Most of the traffic are these vans that serve as long distance buses.
They are so packed that you have 10 people more than is comfortable in the van, and about 20 more people on top of the van. I think the top would be a bit more comfortable, if only for the wind.
Till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun.

dusty roads, take me home

I arrived in Bavet, the first city from Moc Bai. (The border crossing) at 9am this morning. Bavet is kinda boring, mostly a bunch of casinos on the side of the road, then dusty little shops then nothing. The road isn't nearly as bad as I expected. I'm on the road to Phenom Pehn, but I'll turn off when I reach the Mekong and follow that to Kratie. I've found a mildly frightening guest house, but it feels fairly safe because it is run by women. Most of the scary is because there are small holes in the upper wall where I know creepy crawlies can invite themselves in. (it is part of the structure, not from disrepair.)
The road itself seems almost finished, but they left the very last smoothing layer for later. It isn't as green as Vietnam, and it is more dusty, but the people are friendly. The only problem I had was when I stopped for my sugar cane juice. I was surrounded by lots of kids, and several old women and two younger women. We were talking, and I said I came from Vietnam. This enraged the drunken uncle (who was about 90) and he decided to come to where I was sitting. All the girls & women leapt to my defense so I was not even mildly perturbed.
So far so good.
Until I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun.
PS the reason I didn't answer any e-mails today -- the Internet is very very very slow

leaving saigon

The hotel staff are still asleep on the floor. Although I'm ready to go, I'm not sure I have the heart to wake them. I am on my way to Cambodia, and kinda excited about the prospect. I have a plan, a bad map, and a bit of luck.
till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun

another one bites the dust

I actually quite like Saigon, but I also like Hanoi. I read somewhere that most people either like one or the other. What does it mean when you like both?
I guess I'm just weird.
I also found out I'm not a real cyclist.
I met a Belgian, he cycles in Asia. We were talking. Apparently, I'm not doing it right.
He:"What kind of (thing I don't know what it does) do you use?"
Me: "What is that?"
He: "It regulates your gears. You haven't adjusted it?"
Me:" I didn't know I had it"
He:" Do you have GPS?", Me:" Uh, no" He: Do you have (spacial) pedals?" Me:"Uh, no"
HE: "Do you have the proper shoes?" Me: "Uh, no" He: "Do you have a cyclist swiss knife" Me: "What?" (it actually is kinda cool, it has every tool you would need) He: Do you have ... cycle shorts, underwear?" Me: "They have special cycle underwear?" (well, since I have a hard time finding regular underwear that fits, I don't think I'll find the special underwear anytime soon)
He: " How did you do this, you need ( a long list of things I'm sure were in English, but I don't know what they are)
After he left, I felt a little bad. I am not a cool cyclist, but then...
I realized I am The Woman. I did all of this, China and Vietnam, without any toys, and without any special equipment. I don't need all that stuff, and although a few were cool toys, they were just that, toys.
I feel good.
Till I post again, be good be happy and have fun.

what a beautiful day

Yesterday was a very good day. I found an English speaking guide, (he can speak French too) and we were off. First he took me to the bank, and I am now feeling very good about Cambodia &Laos. I then gave my passport to the visa people for the Laos visa--I'm told it is just as easy to get the visa for Cambodia at the border and it is cheaper too). We then started the day with Notre Dame cathedral, where my guide introduced me to his patron saint Joseph- he was named after him. My guide couldn't tell me about the seriously ugly chicken like birds I've seen around, but he was able to tell me about a lot of other interesting things. I didn't want to see pagodas or the tourist stuff, so we went to an art museum and to the zoo and botanical gardens (Saigon doesn't have an aquarium or we would have gone there) . Then we went to a wonderful lunch, at a place I would have never been aware of -strictly local. The huge shrimp were divine, and I even ate frog. It is nice when someone is with you, it allows for a certain amount of adventurousness. After lunch we went across the river by ferry (I love ferries) and it was so different, just like the country side. We sat at a small coffee hut buy the side of the river and watched the small boats, motor boats, dingies, barges, trawlers, and freighters go by. I love boats so it was very cool for me. We talked about philosophy and family and life. At first I felt a bit sorry for him, here he was tri-lingual, smart and ambitious and all he was was a moto guide. But he told me how much he loved his job. He meets people from all over the world, gets to practice his language skills, and spend time with his family. I then envied him a bit. We also talked a bit about the war. He was in his late teens. They call it the American war here, not the Vietnam war. He said he was lucky because he had majored in electronics so he was in the background for most of the fighting. His graduating class had 54 people, and only 4 are alive today. I thought that very very sad. He said the American soldiers brought both good and bad in equal measure. We talked about the nature of luck, and he said that I shouldn't get an office job when I got home. I should get a job that makes me happy and has new things everyday. I agree. After we left he showed me a real market, and then told me that they were going to have to move as a new commerce area was going to be constructed. I said" it already is a commerce area" but not profitable enough and realized that my guide and I were both very very lucky. When we got back to Saigon, we had some ice-cream and said good-bye. I have his e-mail. I then went to a nice dinner and slept very very well.
Today I plan to read my new book, take a nap, and just kinda hang a bit.
Till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun

house of the rising sun

My birthday was pretty nice. I got a very nice room, watched Charlie and the Chocolate Factory on HBO and then had chocolate ice cream for dinner. Ok not a very healthy dinner, but .....
I was happy. The next morning I had the best breakfast sandwich ever, and a mostly uneventful day of travel. I've noticed that the jungle coffee shops have given way to these tent like things, with hammocks instead of chairs. It is quite nice, but I have to be careful not to fall asleep.
I found a semi-nice place for the night by the side of the road, It was getting late and I didn't know if there was another town near by, and Bien Hoa was too far to make by dark. It was a special hotel, where you can rent the company as well as the room, but since every one left me alone I figured it was ok.
The next day I got to Bien Hoa, a very large city. With no hotels. Ok they had two that I found. But really two? and like I said it is a big city. I road around for one hour looking for a room, and was shocked by the dearth of accommodation. However the city did have a plethora of dentists. Usually the dentists here look very scary ( try open air, and not much light) I am surprised at how beautiful the smiles are, considering how scary the dentist offices look, and I figured they just took very good care of their teeth because they didn't want to go there. Now I think they all go to Bien Hoa, and leave that day. It was kinda sad, because there was a beautiful lake front, and instead of coffee shops, cafes or hotels, they had a recycle dump, and almost a slum like neighborhood. Maybe the city planners think, hmph who needs tourists, when we have all the dentists.
I did find one hotel room, and the old lady running the place was very nice. And the next day (today) I came into Saigon. I now understand when they say Hwy 1 has "interesting" traffic. Oh.My.Goodness.
Now I'm happily ensconed in an ok guesthouse, I'll look for something better tomorrow, as well as getting my Western Union. I will then get my visas for Cambodia and Laos, and I'm going to see if I can find an English speaking guide for a day.
Till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun.

blowin in the wind

Today is my birthday!
yeah
I will be in search of ice cream after writing this post.
The road to here has been different. It reminds me a bit of Texas, very dry desert and with lots of scrub and even some cactus. I know, I never would have guessed that Vietnam had cactus. There aren't many trees and only a few hills so the wind is extraordinary, I almost got blown off the bike. Really. But I think it is getting more lush. There are more trees and fewer cows or goats.
Did you know that goats will try to eat all of your baggage. It is true. One goat thought my bag was so delicious he followed me along for two kilometers.
Oh and by the way I reached over 1,500 km in Vietnam. wow.
I also experienced the most interesting bathroom yet. It was a pretty standard bathroom, what made it interesting was the large spider on the wall. It was just sitting there, and since I really had to go, I did. The spider didn't move, so I decided that it wasn't dangerous, just kinky.
And then about 10 km later, a butterfly hit me. Yeah. Who knew they could be so vicious. I was just riding my bike, minding my own business, when a butterfly fluttered along. Then it hit me, and fluttered on by. I was stunned.
However I am currently in a very happy mood, because there was a fruit stand with avocados, and I'm going to get some ice-cream, and maybe find a nice restaurant for dinner.
Till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun.

decisions

I've made up my mind. I'm going to continue to bike to Saigon, then bike to Cambodia, Laos etc. I think it is best, because the thought of getting on a bus here is kinda scary, and this is supposed to be a bike trip.
I stocked up in NaTreng, and even went to the beach for a few minutes. I was surrounded by hawkers selling everything from sarongs to massages to baubles and to be honest, the beach cafe on the side of the road was better. But I did go on a major shopping spree, got antiseptic ointment in case I fall off my bike again, spf 81 sunscreen (I hope this helps) and various other needful things.

The way to NaTreng was pretty interesting. Mostly hilly (up,up,up, down,down,down, flat,flat,flat, up,up,up, down,down,down, flat,flat,flat etc.etc.)but there was a beautiful cafe right on a beach with small fishing boats, that I had to stop and take a break at. And the view! up up up and then seeing the white rocks emerge from turquoise water. wow.

That is one of the reasons I don't make very good time. For example the coffee shops/cafes here can be very beautiful. They are large, have lots and lots of plants and even a fountain or fish pond.There was one that looked especially cool. (literally, cool and breezy, with lots of flowering plants in terra cotta planters.) I decided to take a break. I get my orange juice followed by several boys. I'm tired so I don't really want to deal. But I smile anyway. They huddle and wisper. Now, I know that you know, when several boys start to wisper and huddle, it usually means trouble. I think to my self, oh no. Then one boy breaks off from the group and runs inside. I start to worry. He comes back with a dictionary. We go back and forth with the dictionary teaching each other new words. It was fun, and when I left one of the boys helped me get rid of a spider that wanted to stow away on board my bike.
I don't really want to quit.
Till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun.

Christine the red nosed human, had a very shiny nose

And if you ever saw it, you could even say it glows.

I have problems.
As you can guess by the title, one of the problems is the sun. I'm beginning to resemble my grandmother's patchwork quilt, I keep burning and peeling. I even got blisters on my thighs. Plus the heat, it is so bad. I met another cyclist on the road, he was a young guy from the Netherlands, and I didn't feel so bad when he mentioned the heat the first thing. ( he was trying to do 110 km a day, was really decked out, even had the front wheel bags and gloves, the whole nine yards)
I'm hoping that in Na Trang (a beach town) I can get some stronger sunscreen. I'm really starting to worry a bit.
Which leads me to my second problem. Every other day I want to just quit. (thanks Joe, for the pick me up) Don't get me wrong, Vietnam is beautiful, China was beautiful. I want to see Laos, I like seeing the world roll by, farmers stopping in the field to wave hello, school girls in their white uniform laughing and shouting and flying a red kite, rice drying gold on the side of the road, a french colonial house set back and painted an impossible pink, drinking sugar cane juice from a stand on the side of the road, under a broad leafed shade tree. Not things for the tourist books or postcards, but still, they make the trip worthwhile. (although I have been known to take a break and 'forget' to lock the bike in the hopes it might get stolen, giving me a face saving way out)
And for me it is the journey, not the destination that is important. Which leads me to my third problem. Hue really did a number on my budget. I have a few options, I can get money sent again, I can change my route and go from Na Trang to Laos, from Laos to Thailand, Thailand to Cambodia, Cambodia back to Thailand, Thailand to Malaysia, Malaysia to Singapore. There are a couple of problems with this plan. One is that I won't get to see most of southern Vietnam. Two is that I will have to back track and go over the same route in Cambodia. I could also just go through Cambodia and skip Laos, but since Laos is one of my favorite countries here I really don't want to do that.
I stare at the map as if it had answers. I don't know why, it isn't that good a map anyway.
I'll probably stick to the original "plan" if you can call it that, and get money sent. I want to splurge on the mineral mud bath massage in Na Treng, and I want to take a detour into Dalat.
This trip although not exactly meticulously planned, is going to take a wee bit longer and cost a wee bit more than originally anticipated.
I'll figure it out. Meanwhile, there is a beautiful coffee shop right on the ocean, calling my name.
So, till I post again, be good, be happy, and have fun.